Video Projector Specs LIE

  • SpinRite v6.1 Release #3
    Guest:
    The 3rd release of SpinRite v6.1 is published and may be obtained by all SpinRite v6.0 owners at the SpinRite v6.1 Pre-Release page. (SpinRite will shortly be officially updated to v6.1 so this page will be renamed.) The primary new feature, and the reason for this release, was the discovery of memory problems in some systems that were affecting SpinRite's operation. So SpinRite now incorporates a built-in test of the system's memory. For the full story, please see this page in the "Pre-Release Announcements & Feedback" forum.
    /Steve.
  • Be sure to checkout “Tips & Tricks”
    Dear Guest Visitor → Once you register and log-in please checkout the “Tips & Tricks” page for some very handy tips!

    /Steve.
  • BootAble – FreeDOS boot testing freeware

    To obtain direct, low-level access to a system's mass storage drives, SpinRite runs under a GRC-customized version of FreeDOS which has been modified to add compatibility with all file systems. In order to run SpinRite it must first be possible to boot FreeDOS.

    GRC's “BootAble” freeware allows anyone to easily create BIOS-bootable media in order to workout and confirm the details of getting a machine to boot FreeDOS through a BIOS. Once the means of doing that has been determined, the media created by SpinRite can be booted and run in the same way.

    The participants here, who have taken the time to share their knowledge and experience, their successes and some frustrations with booting their computers into FreeDOS, have created a valuable knowledgebase which will benefit everyone who follows.

    You may click on the image to the right to obtain your own copy of BootAble. Then use the knowledge and experience documented here to boot your computer(s) into FreeDOS. And please do not hesitate to ask questions – nowhere else can better answers be found.

    (You may permanently close this reminder with the 'X' in the upper right.)

rfrazier

Well-known member
Sep 30, 2020
549
187
Hi all. This thread is inspired by the discussions of @Steve s validrive utility to detect FAKE thumb drives. There's a lot of FAKENESS in the world of marketing. It drives me insane and makes me mad. I had occasion a while back to buy a decent low-mid grade (depending on your point of view) video projector. It's native 1080p DLP and cost $ 600. I can run it with room lights on and still get a decent but not great picture. If you're using a white projection screen, the main determinate in whether this works is the brightness of the projector. More recently, that projector started giving me intermittent fan failures and I was considering buying a replacement or fixing it, etc. It's actually throwing fewer temper tantrums lately so I'm still using it. But, in doing research I found ALL KINDS of fake specs in the ads. WOW, I can get a 1080p high brightness projector with great image quality for $ 70 instead of the $ 600 I paid originally. WhoHoo! Er, NO, YOU CAN'T. They have a hundred different ways to FAKE it. Is it one LCD or three LCD? Is it LCD or DLP? Does the focus vary at the edge due to the cheap plastic lens? Can you adjust keystone manually or electronically or not at all? Is it 1080p NATIVE, or does it take a 1080p signal and downscale to 480p or whatever? What are the inputs? What are the outputs? What are the adjustments? Does it have an LED lamp or an ARC lamp? Etc. I'm sure you engineers can relate. Details MATTER.

And, one of my favorite things to hate in ads is claims for brightness. Here's a little blurb from a review I recently posted about a projector screen but this part is really about the projectors.

"With room lights on, the picture is still usable though with the projector capable of 3300 ANSI lumens of brightness. Don't even consider using a cheap $ 100 - $ 200 projector with 300 - 400 ANSI lumens for an application with ambient lights on like this. When a cheap projector ad quotes lumens (not ANSI lumens) and says something like 9,000 lumens. Multiply that by ~ .03 - .04 to get ANSI lumens (based on my research). So, 9,000 lumens is about 270 to 360 ANSI lumens."

Would a $ 100 - $ 200 projector work for you with your needs and requirements and preferences? It might. But it's pretty darn sure you won't get everything you would with a $ 600 - $ 2000 one. I don't believe in buying the most expensive thing in any market segment. But, it's also true you generally don't get what you don't pay for.

So, this is just a little rant about fakeness in ads, which I hate. You have to read every word of the ad. You especially have to note what they DON'T say. If there's something they can rave about, they'll probably rave about it. And you have to read legitimate reviews too if you can find them. Fakeness is an evil pandemic scourge on the Earth!

May your bits be stable and your interfaces be fast. :cool: Ron
 
  • Like
Reactions: CSPea and SeanBZA
Hi all. I appreciate the likes a couple of you gave the post. Glad the info is helpful. I was looking over the review I had posted elsewhere. I found another paragraph I thought I'd post here which is relevant to projectors. Not so much an element of fake marketing, but a misunderstanding some people have about the way projectors work.

"SCREEN DOOR EFFECT - This is not about this screen, but is about projectors. I have a 1080p DLP projector and cannot speak about any other. Some people complain about the "screen door" effect. This means that if you're say closer than 4'-6' from the screen, you see a very fine lattice of horizontal and vertical dark lines in light scenes. It resembles looking through a screen door. This is NOT a problem. It's a side effect of the way DLP systems work, where each pixel is driven by a tiny mirror on the DLP chip (stands for digital light processing or something similar) and there are tiny gaps between them. You WANT to see the screen door if you're very close. That means your projector is PROPERLY FOCUSED. If you don't see the screen door when you're close, the projector is NOT properly focused and you're just adding fuzziness to the picture. If you're further away from the screen, the picture should appear crystal clear to your eyes assuming it was in focus when it was shot."

Hope this is also helpful.

May your bits be stable and your interfaces be fast. :cool: Ron
 
  • Like
Reactions: SeanBZA