Got a 5TB Seagate ST5000NM0084 HDD identifying itself with wrong capacity of 3.9GB. FYI - It's not the formatting or partition size, everyone just assumes it's that for some reason. I think it's a firmware issue, but what do you think?
5TB Seagate ST5000NM0084 HDD
- Thread starter ShadowMeow
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Yes! 3.9GB. Almost certainly mechanical failure. These Seagates identify with 3.9GB capacity when the heads do not have the ability to load the correct identification parameters from the platters, i.e. when the heads can't read the platters at all, and it's identifying with some default values from the ROM on the PCB.
Replacing the heads should fix this issue. Allowing the drive to load the correct identification parameters from the platters. Only problem is the donor drive market is expensive, and you need the correct head-comb tool as well, so it's not always cheap to do it.
Replacing the heads should fix this issue. Allowing the drive to load the correct identification parameters from the platters. Only problem is the donor drive market is expensive, and you need the correct head-comb tool as well, so it's not always cheap to do it.
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Definitely troubleshooting to locate the
'problem'.
If ALL drives are 3.9GB, then the test gear is
stuck.
If another drive is OK, then the test gear and
the other drive are OK.
If a matching drive CARD ONLY is 3.9GB but
when attached to it's original drive is OK, then
you have an argument between the test gear
and that HDD design.
If that drive is OK with another card from a
matching drive, then the original circuit card
is broke,
If the original drive never responds even with
a matching card form an equivalent but
working drive, then there may be a 'marriage'
needed to 'wake up' the drive, and it's off to
a recovery house with it.
Some circuit cards are not swappable even
between successive serial number otherwise
identical drives - go figure.
Fun, eh?
'problem'.
If ALL drives are 3.9GB, then the test gear is
stuck.
If another drive is OK, then the test gear and
the other drive are OK.
If a matching drive CARD ONLY is 3.9GB but
when attached to it's original drive is OK, then
you have an argument between the test gear
and that HDD design.
If that drive is OK with another card from a
matching drive, then the original circuit card
is broke,
If the original drive never responds even with
a matching card form an equivalent but
working drive, then there may be a 'marriage'
needed to 'wake up' the drive, and it's off to
a recovery house with it.
Some circuit cards are not swappable even
between successive serial number otherwise
identical drives - go figure.
Fun, eh?
The USB Stabilizer Pro works fine. Other drives work fine. I already checked them, no need to re-check them.
The problem is failed heads. The blocker is cost. Need to work out if it's cheaper to go the DIY route or have a LAB do it.
The DIY route can be better because I have more control over the process, a LAB takes away that control, unless you sweet talk them into doing a custom service just for you. Like get the drive working again, then post it back, with the understanding that you post it back to them for their drive stock once your finished.
This donor drive might work for spare parts, but look at that price tag: https://www.donordrives.com/st5000n...-039-fw-bb63-ibm-5tb-sata-3-5-hard-drive.html
Head Swap Donor Matching Guide: https://www.donordrives.com/blog/matching-guide
The problem is failed heads. The blocker is cost. Need to work out if it's cheaper to go the DIY route or have a LAB do it.
The DIY route can be better because I have more control over the process, a LAB takes away that control, unless you sweet talk them into doing a custom service just for you. Like get the drive working again, then post it back, with the understanding that you post it back to them for their drive stock once your finished.
This donor drive might work for spare parts, but look at that price tag: https://www.donordrives.com/st5000n...-039-fw-bb63-ibm-5tb-sata-3-5-hard-drive.html
Head Swap Donor Matching Guide: https://www.donordrives.com/blog/matching-guide
I think what you are saying is that the heads
must be dead because the drive spins up, but
the heads won't talk, hence the circuit board
on it's own with the drive disconnected is the
same as the circuit board with the drive
connected - the circuit board is OK, the drive
- the heads - are not talking.
Hence I suggested acquiring a matching drive,
confirming it works, then testing that drive's
circuit board only, on it's own, with no drive
attached, to see if it also shows 3.9GB or not.
If a matching working drive circuit board on
it's own shows something other than 3.9GB,
then the circuit board on the bad drive is
suspect.
In other words, if a good 5TB drive's circuit
board on it's own with no drive attaches still
shows 5TB, then the circuit board on the bad
drive is suspect.
The circuit board from the working drive may
'read' and talk to the heads on the presumed
bad drive.
If it does, then the only challenge is hoping
that any reallocated sector map does not
scramble data recovery.
Otherwise, carefully move the good drive's
head stack to the bad drive.
OR leave the heads alone and move the
platter stack and circuit board from the bad
drive to the good drive, it could go either way.
You can experiment swapping platters in and
out of an inconsequential drive until it works
to develop the skills needed for the real job -
how to make sure the stack stays reasonably
aligned, some people use tape on the edge
of the platter stack.
- - - - -
$382 from DonorDrives, they say:
- - - - -
$100 from NewEgg, return within 30 days, may
or may not match.
- - - - -
All you can do is buy it and try it.
I've seen successive serial numbers be different,
it's a crap-shoot.
must be dead because the drive spins up, but
the heads won't talk, hence the circuit board
on it's own with the drive disconnected is the
same as the circuit board with the drive
connected - the circuit board is OK, the drive
- the heads - are not talking.
Hence I suggested acquiring a matching drive,
confirming it works, then testing that drive's
circuit board only, on it's own, with no drive
attached, to see if it also shows 3.9GB or not.
Aside: what do other drive's circuit boards
on their own show with no drive attached
to those circuit boards?
If a matching working drive circuit board on
it's own shows something other than 3.9GB,
then the circuit board on the bad drive is
suspect.
In other words, if a good 5TB drive's circuit
board on it's own with no drive attaches still
shows 5TB, then the circuit board on the bad
drive is suspect.
The circuit board from the working drive may
'read' and talk to the heads on the presumed
bad drive.
If it does, then the only challenge is hoping
that any reallocated sector map does not
scramble data recovery.
Otherwise, carefully move the good drive's
head stack to the bad drive.
OR leave the heads alone and move the
platter stack and circuit board from the bad
drive to the good drive, it could go either way.
You can experiment swapping platters in and
out of an inconsequential drive until it works
to develop the skills needed for the real job -
how to make sure the stack stays reasonably
aligned, some people use tape on the edge
of the platter stack.
- - - - -
$382 from DonorDrives, they say:
Seagate Barracuda
These drives can be identified by containing
a period ( . ) in the firmware number.
a period ( . ) in the firmware number.
Use the following criteria to find a donor
drive.
drive.
Model number: Match the model number
exactly.
exactly.
Heads map: Match the physical heads (PH)
map exactly. It is OK if the donor has more
heads than the original drive, but all heads
before that should match.
map exactly. It is OK if the donor has more
heads than the original drive, but all heads
before that should match.
Serial number: Match the second and third
characters of the serial number.
characters of the serial number.
Firmware (7-series or earlier): Optional -
For drives that are 7-series or earlier, match
the firmware number.
For drives that are 7-series or earlier, match
the firmware number.
Serial number: In addition to the 2nd and
3rd digit, match the first character of the
serial number.
3rd digit, match the first character of the
serial number.
Site code: Match the site code. This
indicates the location of manufacture.
indicates the location of manufacture.
Part number: Match the 1st half of the part
number. If the second half also matches, it
is likely to be an even better match.
number. If the second half also matches, it
is likely to be an even better match.
Date code: Convert the date codes. They
should be within three months of each
other - the closer the better.
should be within three months of each
other - the closer the better.
- - - - -
$100 from NewEgg, return within 30 days, may
or may not match.
- - - - -
All you can do is buy it and try it.
I've seen successive serial numbers be different,
it's a crap-shoot.
> I think what you are saying is that the heads must be dead because the drive spins up, but the heads won't talk, hence the circuit board on it's own with the drive disconnected is the same as the circuit board with the drive connected - the circuit board is OK, the drive - the heads - are not talking.
Correct, the drive cannot read the service area.
> Hence I suggested acquiring a matching drive, confirming it works, then testing that drive's circuit board only, on it's own, with no drive attached, to see if it also shows 3.9GB or not.
Any PCB will always show a default value such as 3.9GB when removed from the drive.
> Aside: what do other drive's circuit boards on their own show with no drive attached to those circuit boards?
Any PCB will always show a default value such as 3.9GB when removed from the drive.
> If a matching working drive circuit board on it's own shows something other than 3.9GB, then the circuit board on the bad drive is suspect.
No, this does not prove the PCB is faulty. The PCB uses a default value, could be 3.9GB or similar.
> In other words, if a good 5TB drive's circuit board on it's own with no drive attaches still shows 5TB, then the circuit board on the bad drive is suspect.
No. If the PCB cannot read the service area, it will never show 5TB when removed from the drive.
> The circuit board from the working drive may 'read' and talk to the heads on the presumed bad drive.
Swapping the PCB won't help. In most cases you cannot just swap the PCB because the ROM contains information specific to that drive.
> If it does, then the only challenge is hoping that any reallocated sector map does not scramble data recovery.
Generally no one worries about this. All recovery work is done on the drive with whatever sectors are accessible at that time. Generally 3 passes are made, using 300ms / 1000ms / 5000ms read timeouts. You can go for longer reads but the skipped data is usually unimportant. Sometimes sectors are just uncorrectable.
> Otherwise, carefully move the good drive's head stack to the bad drive.
Correct. But you must use the proper gloves, and a head comb to safely move the head stack assembly from one drive to the other drive.
> OR leave the heads alone and move the platter stack and circuit board from the bad drive to the good drive, it could go either way.
No one messes with the platters, unless its to rebuild the drive due to a stuck motor, or inspection in a clean room.
> You can experiment swapping platters in and out of an inconsequential drive until it works to develop the skills needed for the real job - how to make sure the stack stays reasonably aligned, some people use tape on the edge of the platter stack.
Heh! Scotch Tape. But that has a weight limit, the more platters there are, the more chance of this method failing. Putting a mark on the vertical edges of the platters also helps with the alignment.
Platter Tools: https://apextoollab.com/platters/
Correct, the drive cannot read the service area.
> Hence I suggested acquiring a matching drive, confirming it works, then testing that drive's circuit board only, on it's own, with no drive attached, to see if it also shows 3.9GB or not.
Any PCB will always show a default value such as 3.9GB when removed from the drive.
> Aside: what do other drive's circuit boards on their own show with no drive attached to those circuit boards?
Any PCB will always show a default value such as 3.9GB when removed from the drive.
> If a matching working drive circuit board on it's own shows something other than 3.9GB, then the circuit board on the bad drive is suspect.
No, this does not prove the PCB is faulty. The PCB uses a default value, could be 3.9GB or similar.
> In other words, if a good 5TB drive's circuit board on it's own with no drive attaches still shows 5TB, then the circuit board on the bad drive is suspect.
No. If the PCB cannot read the service area, it will never show 5TB when removed from the drive.
> The circuit board from the working drive may 'read' and talk to the heads on the presumed bad drive.
Swapping the PCB won't help. In most cases you cannot just swap the PCB because the ROM contains information specific to that drive.
> If it does, then the only challenge is hoping that any reallocated sector map does not scramble data recovery.
Generally no one worries about this. All recovery work is done on the drive with whatever sectors are accessible at that time. Generally 3 passes are made, using 300ms / 1000ms / 5000ms read timeouts. You can go for longer reads but the skipped data is usually unimportant. Sometimes sectors are just uncorrectable.
> Otherwise, carefully move the good drive's head stack to the bad drive.
Correct. But you must use the proper gloves, and a head comb to safely move the head stack assembly from one drive to the other drive.
> OR leave the heads alone and move the platter stack and circuit board from the bad drive to the good drive, it could go either way.
No one messes with the platters, unless its to rebuild the drive due to a stuck motor, or inspection in a clean room.
> You can experiment swapping platters in and out of an inconsequential drive until it works to develop the skills needed for the real job - how to make sure the stack stays reasonably aligned, some people use tape on the edge of the platter stack.
Heh! Scotch Tape. But that has a weight limit, the more platters there are, the more chance of this method failing. Putting a mark on the vertical edges of the platters also helps with the alignment.
Platter Tools: https://apextoollab.com/platters/
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